Summer Landscape Maintenance

After the overall layout and function are defined for the project, material type is typically the first decision that follows in the design process. The two basic choices that clients must decide between are whether they want natural stone or interlocking concrete pavers. Once this choice is made, the next choice is typically the size and scale of the material to be used on patios and walkways. The actual size of the project usually guides this decision as the dimensional size of the material pieces are generally selected to be proportionate to the size of the space or other surrounding natural or structural elements that complement the hardscape design. Even though these are general guidelines, that doesn’t mean you can’t have a unique look to your hardscape. One way to create a unique look for patios and walkways is through the incorporation of borders, patterns, and accents. A border can be added to provide a perimeter enclosure to the hardscape surface. Two of the most common styles used for borders are a “soldier course” or “sailor course”. The design feature can further be enhanced and customized by the addition of contrasting colors, texture, and size. The usage of different paver materials can be utilized to define individual space within the design itself. The possibilities for combining patterns, borders, and accents are almost limitless. While the decision process of selecting your hardscape materials for your landscaping project can appear intimidating, it really can be a fun experience. Working with a creative and experienced landscape designer can help you create your own unique style to help your landscape standout the way you want it to.

With most townships having height restrictions on fencing, there are other options for those that are seeking to create true seclusion for their property. Trees and shrubs are a great solution for creating long term, effective privacy. With so many choices in plants there are multiple ways to achieve your desired level of screening. This could be in the form of a solid 20’ high evergreen hedge or a naturalized border consisting of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs. There are several questions you’ll need to ask yourself when considering a natural privacy border. Do you prefer a formal look or would you like your screen to look natural? Do you need yearlong privacy? Prefer a lot of color? How high do you want it to be? TYPES OF NATURAL PRIVACY SCREENS: EVERGREEN HEDGE Evergreen Hedges are a classic privacy screen and perfect for creating a formal border. If you’re looking for year round privacy this would be your ideal choice. The following plants are popular choices for our region, providing increased privacy as they mature: Concolor fir – soft, blue needles and holds up well to sun and wind exposure. Leyland cypress – grows at a rate of 3’ per year. Has medium to dark green foliage. Border Privet – Privet is a common shrub used for screens. They are very easy to shear, can be cut to almost any height and offer a nice, clean look. Green Giant Arborvitae – one of the most popular choices for our area. A fast growing evergreen tree that can grow up to 60 feet tall. It can grow as much as 3’ in one year. It is also very deer resistant, unlike most other arborvitaes. NATURALIZED PLANT BORDER If you’d prefer a natural look to your screen, you’ll want to use a combination of deciduous and evergreen plants. These plants should vary in size, color and shape. Creating a naturalized plant screen requires a consistent mix of trees, shrubs and perennials. This helps to create privacy and a robust, beautiful look for your landscape. A mix of evergreens and deciduous shade trees are ideal as the foundation. Then layer in assorted shrubs. Follow up with perennials and annuals to create an appealing blend of texture, color and privacy. Keep the tallest shrubs towards the back and work your way forward. Small Trees Recommended for Natural Plant Border: Carefully positioned small trees, especially those that branch out at the base, also help create privacy in a mixed screen. Here are a handful to consider: Southern Magnolia Pagoda Dogwood Eastern Redbud Carolina Silver bell Shrubs Recommended for Natural Plant Border: A mix of interesting shrubs are great for providing mid-level height to your natural privacy fence. Ninebark – a fast grower with foliage in bold shades of purple or gold, depending on the variety. Its peeling bark creates winter interest. Variegated Red-Twig Dogwood – boasts pretty, variegated leaves and small white flowers, followed by interesting white berries with hints of blue and green. In winter, you’ll enjoy its beautiful red bark. Japanese Euonymus – a fast-growing evergreen shrub that can reach 10 to 15 feet tall, but it’s easy to shear back to create a lower hedge. Choose varieties with variegated foliage for extra visual punch in your privacy border. Juniper ssp. – a versatile shrub that do well in a privacy border. Korean Lilac – an 8-foot-tall shrub that is easy to grow. It offers fragrant purple flowers in May. Hybrid Yew – a versatile evergreen that grows well in sun or shade. Comes in many different varieties, some with mounded growth and some more upright. Let Classic Lawns & Gardens help you design the right privacy screen for your property.

1. CLEAN PLANT BEDS Before new leaves appear, clear autumn leaf debris out of plant beds. It is especially important to clean out the interior branching of plants to allow for better air flow and to prevent disease and decay. Also, while raking out the dead leaves, take the opportunity to look for insects that may be feeding on your plants. Immediately treat any pest problems to prevent infestation. 2. CLEAR DRAINAGE DITCHES Leaves and debris gather in drainage areas over the winter. Early spring is a time to ensure that the spring rains will have adequate runoff. Because plant growth is at a low point in early spring, this is the easiest time of year for clearing drainage ditches. 3. START A COMPOST PILE Start a compost pile, or use a compost bin, using the debris you’ve compiled from cleaning out your plant beds, drainage areas, gutters, etc. A good compost will have equal amounts “brown” (carbon-rich) materials like dried leaves and straw and “green” (nitrogen-rich) materials like grass clippings in even layers. Spray down the pile with a hose and add a compost bioactivator. Turn regularly. Continue adding to the pile throughout the season for rich compost next spring. 4. FIX TRELLISES AND FENCING Trellises and fencing are easiest to repair in early spring, with less growth to work around and fewer roots to disturb. 5. WEEDING Weeding your beds is the most tedious of your spring cleanup activities, but also one of the most important. A good tip: start early and break your mulch beds up into separate areas equal in size. Work on one area at a time and set a goal for yourself on when you want to have you weeding finished. 6. GET YOUR SOIL READY: Take a Soil Test. Check your soil pH with a home soil-test kit, taking several samples from different planting areas for an accurate reading. Enrich soil as necessary: Add dolomitic lime to raise the pH or elemental sulfur to lower the pH. Preparing your soil also requires tilling and fertilizing. Till your garden area around 8 to 12 inches beneath the surface. This will help loosen the soil and remove any rocks and debris. After tilling, add organic matter and fertilizer. Spread a 4-inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure and any amendments over soil, and cultivate it to a depth of 10 to 12 inches with a spading fork. 7. CHECK YOUR IRRIGATION SYSTEM Replace batteries, check for tubing leaks, and repair as needed. If you do not already have drip irrigation system in place, we highly recommend installing one. A drip system will save you time, money, and water. If you are considering an irrigation system, call Classic Lawns & Gardens at 610-444-5548. We would be happy to answer any questions you may have about the installation process over the phone or in person. 8. TRANSPLANTING Transplant any existing shrubs you want to move before they begin to leaf out. Soil conditions in early spring are favorable to transplants because the soil is more consistently moist helping new rooting to expand and reach out for more nutrients. When transplanting, use a spade to find the edges of the main root mass, then dig down and under the root mass to loosen the root ball. Dig the new hole several inches wider all around, and add soil amendments such as compost or organic fertilizer. Once the transplant is set in place, filling in around the sides with lightly compacted soil will promote lateral root growth. When transplanting old plants or planting new ones, you should always make sure the base of the plant is set about 1 to 2 inches above the existing soil level. 9. PLANT OUT BULBS Early spring is the time to set out bulbs which were forced in pots or bowls in the house. Some may bloom next spring; others may take two or three years to rebuild enough food reserve to support flowering. 10. DIVIDE PERENNIALS To make life easier, try to time the division of your perennials so emerging shoots are only 2 to 4 inches tall. Prepare new beds for perennial flowers by spreading a 6-inch deep layer of organic matter (i.e. peat moss, compost, rotted manure) and work in deeply. Plants growing in deep, rich soil are less likely to suffer from summer drought. 11. PRUNE DEAD, DISEASED OR DAMAGED BRANCHES Prune unwanted branches of trees and shrubs after new growth has begun. Branches that definitely need to be pruned are those that are dead, diseased or damaged. Cut back any remaining dead perennial foliage from last season. Prune roses just before they start to bud out. Spring blooming trees and shrubs, however, should not be pruned in late winter; their flower buds are ready to open as temperatures warm. Wait until after they bloom to prune. Shrubs such as azaleas, forsythia, weigela, dogwood, and other spring shrubs can be pruned now. Thin out some branches of trees which have a history of leaf spot diseases. Pruning will improve air circulation and penetration of sunlight, which in turn can reduce the incidence of disease. 12. REMOVE OR RELAX TREE STAKES Allowing a little swaying of tree stems results in sturdy yet resilient plants so you don’t want to keep your tree staked forever. Allow for a season or two of growth and remove the stakes or loosen the stake wires. Remove tree guards or burlap wraps from the trunks of young trees or shrubs. This prevents moisture buildup beneath the wrap, which can encourage rot and promote entry of diseases. 13. MULCHING When adding mulch to garden beds or around the base of fruit trees, keep the mulch a few inches away from tree trunks and the crowns and stems of plants. This will help reduce rot on the stems of young plants and will protect the bark of young fruit trees.